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    October 13

    夹着风沙带着酒香的古卷3

      第二天是国庆长假前最后一天,所以我们选择游客较多的东线。
      早上先到回坊吃早饭。来过西安的人几乎没有不知道回坊的,因为钟楼附近的特色美食几乎都在这条烟熏火燎人声嘈杂摩肩接踵充满食物香味油烟味和汽车尾气的小街上。
      先买了甄糕作为中午的干粮。甄糕的味道有点像豆沙粽子,但是里面有很多整粒的红枣。虽然论斤卖,但老板娘爽快,手起铲落,根本就不称,给的量很足。
      买完干粮我们去大皮院吃早饭。
      米皮是陕西的特色小吃之一,经过选米浸泡磨浆蒸熟切条后,加上十几种调料,一碗香喷喷的酿皮就做成了。这个“酿”在陕西话里读成“让”,指的是米皮软中带韧的特殊口感。别看酿皮制作步骤简单,但现在能做出“酿”感的米皮店已经寥寥无几了,盛家就是其中之一。
      当我们踏进盛家酿皮店的时候,老板娘直接问我们要几碗,显然该店菜单上的其他点心都是摆设,食客几乎都是冲着酿皮来的。为了保证童叟无欺,他们家的米皮每碗都要事先称重,做事这么认真的还真没见过。米皮的调料通常以辣椒为主,但回民习惯加芝麻酱。香香的麻酱中透出醋的酸味,实在让人胃口大开。
      盛家隔壁的定家小酥肉也是一绝,但因为一大早的不宜吃得油腻就没去。
      当我们吃早饭的时候,对面的老大爷和小姑娘正有条不紊地为一天的营业做着准备,安静中透出一种淡定祥和的气氛。
      吃完早饭,我们直奔火车站搭乘游5。因为到西安来旅游的游客都是冲着兵马俑来的,所以游5车次很多。
      值得一提的是,在火车站的托N多,基本上主动找你的都是冒充游5的。我们被一个托跟了一路,从厕所出来她还等着。不信她,她还指着一块牌子说:“这不是游5嘛?这么老大的字你都不认识?”字是认识,但谁知道是谁写的啊?后来去问民警,果然在东广场有一堆车在等着,那才是真正的车站。为保国庆安全,西安的主要街道上隔了十几米就摆一个桌子,找些阿姨大妈看着算是治安点,看上去有点小题大作,倒是为游客问路提供了不少方便。
      我们上车后选择顺着线路走,先去华清池再到兵马俑,这样就保证了从兵马俑出来后有座位。差不多1小时后我们在华清池下了车。
      进门正赶上表演节目,于是从头看到尾。这就是自由行的好处,如果跟团就不得不中途离开了。
      也许因为旅游团通常忽略华清池,或是长假还没到的缘故,所以这里的游客不太多,感觉表演不成气候,因此也是免费观看,但演员们还是很认真地在表演,并努力把感情投入进去,值得表扬一记。

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